This past Friday, I had lunch at a naval base on the coast of Israel. The base isn't open to the public, so the Mediterranean there is as pristine, as clear, as blue and turquoise and aquamarine as the Tel Aviv waters once were.
I swam out into the water, the sandy bottom just beyond my toes for a long way out. Even in deeper water, the bottom appeared mere inches away. A heard a swoop, and saw a seagull fly off, having passed mere inches above my head. He came back once more, with a friend, encouraging me to join my own species on shore before I got pecked! The other downside was the onset of the jellyfish season. We saw a few big ones hovering menacingly just beneath the surface. The smaller ones swam out of sight, leaving tiny stings on my legs and stomach.
It was an extremely hot day, so some of the guys put up a shelter on the beach. I stayed as much as possible out of the sun by the picnic tables nearby. There were about 15 families there and lots of young children to play with. It was sheer joy to watch the fathers caring tenderly for their children, taking them into the water, helping them navigate the buffet, showering them, and even dealing with some less pleasant crisis related to, em, certain human necessities.
There was an obscene amount of food, and the mass consumption of rare meat was the one aspect of the day that fit neatly into my preconceptions. After one huge gorging of steaks and kebabs and sausages (no forks necessary!), we all went for a swim. Stuffed, I was shocked when the guys lit up the fire again an hour later and started round two. Ori came over to me, dripping steak in hand, red juice trickling down his chin, and offered me a bite... (Uncle Chris, I think you would have been in heaven!) There was dessert, too - Ori's mom had hand made ice cream and brownies and chocolate mousse. It was, simply - a food orge.
The meal, however fabulous, was hardly the highlight of the day. After everyone cleared out, we headed out to explore the ancient ruins that remain securely protected from public grasp by the elaborate security forces of the base. Adorned with headlamps, sneakers, long pants and some water, we went into the depths of the crusader fortress. The fortress, erected in 1218 by the Knights Templer, truly defies description. It is in incredibly good condition. There is an elaborate system of underground, cavernous rooms. There is a long hall, somewhat reminiscent (and I apologize for what I am about to say) of the dining hall in Harry Potter. The complex of large gray stones stretches out into the sea, with systems of arches, towers and walls that protected the city that once stood along the shore.
We walked out towards the sea, into the dining chambers where the water crashed up against the outer walls. Light poured in from the long, arched windows at the end of the rooms. From there, we walked into rooms more hidden underground. The floor of the fortress was sandy (and flea-covered, we found out later!) We stuck close together to see in the dim beam of our headlamps. We heard the distinct squealing of bats and stayed far from one of the rooms where the din of their soanr navigation was deafening. We choose an alternate passageway and tunneled on until the site of the disease-carrying fleas beneath us was too terrifying for us to want to linger any longer.
We found a shelf of rock and coral barely covered by the water and sat watching the sunset amidst barnacles, crabs and a giant jellyfish.The water splashed against us and the sun shed changing hues of orange against the stone arches and walls that have stood guard to so many sunsets...
Very few people have had the incredible privilege and adventure of exploring this place. Lacking the tourist trap feeling of an archaeological dig, I couldn't help feeling that such sites might be better left untouched. There were no glass cases filled with artifacts, no hole covered in glass to show the layers of ancient construction over thousands of years. Perhaps the knowledge gained from such archaeological projects is fascinating and important. Still, I've always felt a bit tentative about museums and they're flagrant exploitation of the simple day-to-day life of ancient cultures...
For photos:
http://www.sitesandphotos.com/catalog/actions-show/id-389281.html
Monday, June 30, 2008
Monday, June 16, 2008
Last night, in spite of being exhausted from another very short night on Saturday and a trip to Jerusalem for Hebrew classes, Ori and I went out to a concert. We walked the several kilometers to "Barbie" - venue near Yafo (the southern part of Tel Aviv). The draw was a musician named Idan Haviv, a friend of Ori's.
As we walked through the seedier neighborhoods of Tel Aviv, i didn't know what to expect from the evening, nor was I particularly mollified when we walked into the smoky club.
However!
In contrast to the dingy surroundings, the unassuming man on center stage was singing with a voice, a passion, a rare talent and a tenderness that were completely captivating. I have been to more than a few concerts - but this one was special, unforgettable even. With a backup entourage of four musicians and plus a female vocalist, plus lights, and smoke - Idan was still able to snag and maintain everyone's attention. The other musicians - also talented - faded into the background as Idan sang his own creations. Tender, smart songs that ranged from romantic, to introspective to lively and fun.
Ori and I agree - he will be a star. And when we told him so after the show, he humbly thanked us and told that he does not yet have a CD. I wished him good luck, and then assured him he wouldn't need it...
Bedouin Field Trip
Today, we went with our colloquium class to the south of Israel. We spent the day learning about the Bedouin tribes of the Negev Desert. In spite of the logistical nightmares that ensued - unordered buses, lack of directions etc..., we had an incredible experience.
Our group had seven students and we were accompanied by Erez, a young security guard who was very nice, but slept during the long drives in the van. *As we all did, I should add!* Our first stop was at the Bedouin Museum, named (inexplicably) for a forger Israeli pilot named Joe Alon.
The Bedouins are named after the Arabic word for "desert." The museum depicts their life as it was until about 50 years ago - nomadic, tribal based, tent-dwelling. The Bedouins survived off their herds of goats, and some camels - using their bounty for food, clothing and shelter. Today, as I have seen on some of my hikes, many Bedouins still live in the traditional way. Saudi Arabia is mostly Bedouin as is the Sinai Desert. Tribes wander throughout Jordan and make up a large percentage of the population in southern and northern Israel.
In the Negev Desert, with modernization and political agendas squeezing the nomads from all sides, they, too, have begun to settle in permanent communities.
We stopped next in the huge Bedouin city of Rahat. There, we went to the community center, dedicated to encouraging and helping young Bedouins to attend college.
Throughout the day, the people we met expressed the same themes over and over again. On a positive note, the Bedouin are reputed for their hospitality - tea, and copious food (pita, desserts, fruit) was served to us, as it would be to any guest. Even in the midst of the desert, a wandering stranger would receive 3 days of hospitality- no questions asked. We stopped at a roadside convenience store for drinks, and the clerk there insisted on giving our whole group free drinks. Most of us paid anyway, suggesting they give the money to charity instead. The Bedouins of southern Israel have a surprisingly high level of school attendance. They also volunteer for the Israeli army at high rates.
Still, problems are rampant - in Rahat, the major Bedouin 'metropolis' unemployment is 54%. It is worse in other cities and villages.
There are drug problems from the goods smuggled into Israel from across the Sinai in Egypt. Violence is increasing in the major cities and many Bedouins live in unrecognized communities. These residents have no access to facilities for water, electricity or decent schooling. They do have citizenship, however, and free health care.
Polygamy (although illegal in Israel) is still widely practiced and culturally accepted among the Bedouin. Having several wives means that many Bedouin nuclear families can have as many as 60 or more members!
As we drove through Rahat, we also were exposed to the layers of social division and tribal differences within the Bedouin culture. The black Bedouins - orinngally from Sudan and Egypt - are the lowest class. They live in tin shanties sitting on dusty clearings. The children were barefoot, the yard of homes surrounded by barbed wire. Up on a hill, a few meters above the poor neighborhoods, were large villas. In those homes, we were told, lived smaller families of wealthy Bedouins - the lawyers, and other professional of Rahat whose homes literally overlooked the slums of the the city from above a stark, daunting fence. Our guide informed us (after apologizing if he seemed racist) that the black Bedouins tend to be lazy and don;t work, thus explaining their higher poverty rates.
I couldn't help but think back to Ladakh, in India. There, too, the encroaching globalization and modernization had changed the way of life for small villagers. While the modern era has brought cell phones and satellite dishes to remote groups of people it has also destroyed the ability of these groups to live self-sustainably. Their former way of life as nomads isn't possible in modern Israel, and thus they are forming more permanent settlements and facing new problems of modernity - homelessness, drug use, unemployment and increasing domestic violence. Of course the "old way of life" had its problems too, I am sure, and the museum made it clear that the Bedouin life had always been challenging and very divided by gender and tribe.
Our last stop was at the 'unrecognized town' where the manager of the community center lives. We drove around for another 45 minutes or so looking for the place, and finally pulled up a dusty road to the community gathering room. Our bus pulled up beside an outhouse and we were directed into a room lined with cushions and mattresses. We waited about 10 minutes for children to bring us platters piled high with fresh fruit and pastries. Only after we ate and drank did the presentation begin.
We were introduced to the village leader - a man who had served 28 years in the Israeli army and is the holds the highest rank ever achieved by a Bedouin. He told us about the problems of the village which has 11,000 residents. For years, he has been trying to get the Israeli government to recognize the town. They don't want to put in the financial commitment of suppling the settlement with water, electricity or schools. The residents have offered to give up 2/3 of their 15,000 dinams of land in exchange for recognition, but the government still declines.
The government wants them to relocate to already established towns, such as Rahat. The leader pointed out, however, that there are several reasons why the local community does not want to move. They are a different tribe than the reisdents in the cities, and the relationships between different Bedouin groups are not always good. Furthermore, they have been in this settlement for over a generation and do not wnat to leave behind their home or their more rural lifestyles. Finally, they have much less crime and drug problems than a city such as Rahat and they do not want to raise their families among the rpoblems of the urban areas.
In spite of their arguments in favor of obtaining status and their assurance that they will pay taxes, become educated, join the military and generally add to Israeli society, the government requried that they prove that there are at least 800 families
in the town. They lack this number, and are also aware that for Jewish settlements, only a few dozen families or less are necessary in order to obtain government recognition.
All in all, the day was fascinating. There is a clear dearth of nonprofit organizations working in this community and a great deal of need. The problems the Bedouins face are typical of a minority group that is being affected by modernization, overpopulation, under-education and general neglect. Of course the problems are complicated, but I think by visiting the community and learning about it, all Israelis and tourists in Israel can help get a more realistic view of the variety of existence in this country.
PICTURES:
1. Rahat - contrasting neighborhoods
2. Rahat - child in front of her home
3. Unrecognized Village
As we walked through the seedier neighborhoods of Tel Aviv, i didn't know what to expect from the evening, nor was I particularly mollified when we walked into the smoky club.
However!
In contrast to the dingy surroundings, the unassuming man on center stage was singing with a voice, a passion, a rare talent and a tenderness that were completely captivating. I have been to more than a few concerts - but this one was special, unforgettable even. With a backup entourage of four musicians and plus a female vocalist, plus lights, and smoke - Idan was still able to snag and maintain everyone's attention. The other musicians - also talented - faded into the background as Idan sang his own creations. Tender, smart songs that ranged from romantic, to introspective to lively and fun.
Ori and I agree - he will be a star. And when we told him so after the show, he humbly thanked us and told that he does not yet have a CD. I wished him good luck, and then assured him he wouldn't need it...
Bedouin Field Trip
Today, we went with our colloquium class to the south of Israel. We spent the day learning about the Bedouin tribes of the Negev Desert. In spite of the logistical nightmares that ensued - unordered buses, lack of directions etc..., we had an incredible experience.
Our group had seven students and we were accompanied by Erez, a young security guard who was very nice, but slept during the long drives in the van. *As we all did, I should add!* Our first stop was at the Bedouin Museum, named (inexplicably) for a forger Israeli pilot named Joe Alon.
The Bedouins are named after the Arabic word for "desert." The museum depicts their life as it was until about 50 years ago - nomadic, tribal based, tent-dwelling. The Bedouins survived off their herds of goats, and some camels - using their bounty for food, clothing and shelter. Today, as I have seen on some of my hikes, many Bedouins still live in the traditional way. Saudi Arabia is mostly Bedouin as is the Sinai Desert. Tribes wander throughout Jordan and make up a large percentage of the population in southern and northern Israel.
In the Negev Desert, with modernization and political agendas squeezing the nomads from all sides, they, too, have begun to settle in permanent communities.
We stopped next in the huge Bedouin city of Rahat. There, we went to the community center, dedicated to encouraging and helping young Bedouins to attend college.
Throughout the day, the people we met expressed the same themes over and over again. On a positive note, the Bedouin are reputed for their hospitality - tea, and copious food (pita, desserts, fruit) was served to us, as it would be to any guest. Even in the midst of the desert, a wandering stranger would receive 3 days of hospitality- no questions asked. We stopped at a roadside convenience store for drinks, and the clerk there insisted on giving our whole group free drinks. Most of us paid anyway, suggesting they give the money to charity instead. The Bedouins of southern Israel have a surprisingly high level of school attendance. They also volunteer for the Israeli army at high rates.
Still, problems are rampant - in Rahat, the major Bedouin 'metropolis' unemployment is 54%. It is worse in other cities and villages.
There are drug problems from the goods smuggled into Israel from across the Sinai in Egypt. Violence is increasing in the major cities and many Bedouins live in unrecognized communities. These residents have no access to facilities for water, electricity or decent schooling. They do have citizenship, however, and free health care.
Polygamy (although illegal in Israel) is still widely practiced and culturally accepted among the Bedouin. Having several wives means that many Bedouin nuclear families can have as many as 60 or more members!
As we drove through Rahat, we also were exposed to the layers of social division and tribal differences within the Bedouin culture. The black Bedouins - orinngally from Sudan and Egypt - are the lowest class. They live in tin shanties sitting on dusty clearings. The children were barefoot, the yard of homes surrounded by barbed wire. Up on a hill, a few meters above the poor neighborhoods, were large villas. In those homes, we were told, lived smaller families of wealthy Bedouins - the lawyers, and other professional of Rahat whose homes literally overlooked the slums of the the city from above a stark, daunting fence. Our guide informed us (after apologizing if he seemed racist) that the black Bedouins tend to be lazy and don;t work, thus explaining their higher poverty rates.
I couldn't help but think back to Ladakh, in India. There, too, the encroaching globalization and modernization had changed the way of life for small villagers. While the modern era has brought cell phones and satellite dishes to remote groups of people it has also destroyed the ability of these groups to live self-sustainably. Their former way of life as nomads isn't possible in modern Israel, and thus they are forming more permanent settlements and facing new problems of modernity - homelessness, drug use, unemployment and increasing domestic violence. Of course the "old way of life" had its problems too, I am sure, and the museum made it clear that the Bedouin life had always been challenging and very divided by gender and tribe.
Our last stop was at the 'unrecognized town' where the manager of the community center lives. We drove around for another 45 minutes or so looking for the place, and finally pulled up a dusty road to the community gathering room. Our bus pulled up beside an outhouse and we were directed into a room lined with cushions and mattresses. We waited about 10 minutes for children to bring us platters piled high with fresh fruit and pastries. Only after we ate and drank did the presentation begin.
We were introduced to the village leader - a man who had served 28 years in the Israeli army and is the holds the highest rank ever achieved by a Bedouin. He told us about the problems of the village which has 11,000 residents. For years, he has been trying to get the Israeli government to recognize the town. They don't want to put in the financial commitment of suppling the settlement with water, electricity or schools. The residents have offered to give up 2/3 of their 15,000 dinams of land in exchange for recognition, but the government still declines.
The government wants them to relocate to already established towns, such as Rahat. The leader pointed out, however, that there are several reasons why the local community does not want to move. They are a different tribe than the reisdents in the cities, and the relationships between different Bedouin groups are not always good. Furthermore, they have been in this settlement for over a generation and do not wnat to leave behind their home or their more rural lifestyles. Finally, they have much less crime and drug problems than a city such as Rahat and they do not want to raise their families among the rpoblems of the urban areas.
In spite of their arguments in favor of obtaining status and their assurance that they will pay taxes, become educated, join the military and generally add to Israeli society, the government requried that they prove that there are at least 800 families
in the town. They lack this number, and are also aware that for Jewish settlements, only a few dozen families or less are necessary in order to obtain government recognition.
All in all, the day was fascinating. There is a clear dearth of nonprofit organizations working in this community and a great deal of need. The problems the Bedouins face are typical of a minority group that is being affected by modernization, overpopulation, under-education and general neglect. Of course the problems are complicated, but I think by visiting the community and learning about it, all Israelis and tourists in Israel can help get a more realistic view of the variety of existence in this country.
PICTURES:
1. Rahat - contrasting neighborhoods
2. Rahat - child in front of her home
3. Unrecognized Village
Tuesday, June 10, 2008
First of all...I know it's been awhile, but no one event has seemed that interesting.Granted, the two weddings of two of my closest friends in the US were certainly UNFORGETABLE, precious occasions, but I am not sure how interesting they are to "my readership." (that's all 5 of you, mom, dad, etc...!)
The biggest news in my life happened today: I am officially a GERMAN! More importantly, I am a real, live European citizen... and it feels great. A little bit like cheating - since I've spent all of 3 weeks there and I don't speak the language- but exhilarating none the less. The windows of opportunity feel wide open to me, the glass of borders smashed; I sort of feel like my own view of myself as citizen of the
"world" is official. Of course that is a nauseatingly closed-minded and western-centric attitude...but I'll bask in this feeling for at least 24 hours nonetheless!
Other news...I move to Tel Aviv this week! Come and visit us near Shuk HaCarmel - and a few blocks from the beach! We have an extra bedroom :)
On to more interesting stories...
Israel had a 4-day weekend in honor of Shavuot (a holiday marking the giving/receiving of the Ten Commandments at Sinai) I celebrated in the wilderness - which I feel is very fitting. (And also with the customary sweet, dairy foods that are eaten on Shavuot. Ori's mom made AMAZING blintzes, and even let us take the leftovers! :)
Thursday night I went to two weddings here and then woke up a few hours later to take a bus up to the most northern part of Israel.
THE GOLAN HEIGHTS:
The Golan is in the north of Israel, to the east of the Jordan River. From its heights we could view Syria, Lebanon, and the finger of the Galilee (the region of Israel that is to the west of the Jordan River.) Beginning up North near Har Dov, with Mount Hermon in site, we spent 4 days wandering, trail blazing, fence hopping, jungle crawling, bushwacking, berry picking, river crossing, swimming and generally crisscrossing the territory as we headed mostly south towards Lake Kinneret.
I learned two Hebrew words this week, although sharing them hardly represents the amazing, breathtaking, memorable experience of the weekend. Still, it's only fair:
בֹּץ - "botz" - mud
מוֹקֵשיםׁ - "moksheem" - landmines
The weekend began with a word of advice from our incredibly knowledgeable guide. The Golan is filled with landmines (something I never knew...) that are left over from the time before 1967 when Syria controlled the territory. There are many, many barbed wire fences posted with warnings about the mines... but Sharon (the guide) also taught us how to distinguish between the metal fence posts used by the Israeli army and those used by Syria. (It's all in the shape of the tiny groves that hold the barbed wire in place.) Although the threat was scary in principle, on the trail it was not a major issue. The mine fields were clearly marked and we walked close together in a single file line. (No mom, I was not in front.) At some points the cleared path was narrow and steep, but certainly passable.
The first day was probably the most remote. The hilly landscape was scattered with beautiful but thorny flowers - purple, blue balls of spikes atop long, thick stems. There were also poppies and other various wild flowers. There were fewer hikers than on a typical weekend, so we went as one group. This meant - much to my advantage! - that the pace was not nearly as challenging as the previous hikes I have done with this group. I got, over the weekend, the worst blisters I have ever had. They plagues me throughout the trek, and , to be honest, put a damper on the entire expreience. I don't at all regret going, but I am busy wondering what exactly I should do about my hiking boots in Turkey next month.
Okay, between thorns, landmines and blisters, I know I am not painting a pretty picture. Let me explain...
First of all, just being in this much argued-over territory, and seeing its geography first hand helped to enhance my understanding of the place. It is lush and green and bursting with fertile fruit trees, agriculture and endless tiny springs. There were lots of cattle, chewing happily or grazing, feeding their young, or lying down, basking in the sunny breeze and swatting at the flies with their tails. We watched a small deer as she pranced across a sloping field and then "did her business," while hiding modestly under one of the few shade-granting trees. She skipped off happily afterwards, never seeming to take note (or care) of our presence.
More soon...
This is just the beginning!
The biggest news in my life happened today: I am officially a GERMAN! More importantly, I am a real, live European citizen... and it feels great. A little bit like cheating - since I've spent all of 3 weeks there and I don't speak the language- but exhilarating none the less. The windows of opportunity feel wide open to me, the glass of borders smashed; I sort of feel like my own view of myself as citizen of the
"world" is official. Of course that is a nauseatingly closed-minded and western-centric attitude...but I'll bask in this feeling for at least 24 hours nonetheless!
Other news...I move to Tel Aviv this week! Come and visit us near Shuk HaCarmel - and a few blocks from the beach! We have an extra bedroom :)
On to more interesting stories...
Israel had a 4-day weekend in honor of Shavuot (a holiday marking the giving/receiving of the Ten Commandments at Sinai) I celebrated in the wilderness - which I feel is very fitting. (And also with the customary sweet, dairy foods that are eaten on Shavuot. Ori's mom made AMAZING blintzes, and even let us take the leftovers! :)
Thursday night I went to two weddings here and then woke up a few hours later to take a bus up to the most northern part of Israel.
THE GOLAN HEIGHTS:
The Golan is in the north of Israel, to the east of the Jordan River. From its heights we could view Syria, Lebanon, and the finger of the Galilee (the region of Israel that is to the west of the Jordan River.) Beginning up North near Har Dov, with Mount Hermon in site, we spent 4 days wandering, trail blazing, fence hopping, jungle crawling, bushwacking, berry picking, river crossing, swimming and generally crisscrossing the territory as we headed mostly south towards Lake Kinneret.
I learned two Hebrew words this week, although sharing them hardly represents the amazing, breathtaking, memorable experience of the weekend. Still, it's only fair:
בֹּץ - "botz" - mud
מוֹקֵשיםׁ - "moksheem" - landmines
The weekend began with a word of advice from our incredibly knowledgeable guide. The Golan is filled with landmines (something I never knew...) that are left over from the time before 1967 when Syria controlled the territory. There are many, many barbed wire fences posted with warnings about the mines... but Sharon (the guide) also taught us how to distinguish between the metal fence posts used by the Israeli army and those used by Syria. (It's all in the shape of the tiny groves that hold the barbed wire in place.) Although the threat was scary in principle, on the trail it was not a major issue. The mine fields were clearly marked and we walked close together in a single file line. (No mom, I was not in front.) At some points the cleared path was narrow and steep, but certainly passable.
The first day was probably the most remote. The hilly landscape was scattered with beautiful but thorny flowers - purple, blue balls of spikes atop long, thick stems. There were also poppies and other various wild flowers. There were fewer hikers than on a typical weekend, so we went as one group. This meant - much to my advantage! - that the pace was not nearly as challenging as the previous hikes I have done with this group. I got, over the weekend, the worst blisters I have ever had. They plagues me throughout the trek, and , to be honest, put a damper on the entire expreience. I don't at all regret going, but I am busy wondering what exactly I should do about my hiking boots in Turkey next month.
Okay, between thorns, landmines and blisters, I know I am not painting a pretty picture. Let me explain...
First of all, just being in this much argued-over territory, and seeing its geography first hand helped to enhance my understanding of the place. It is lush and green and bursting with fertile fruit trees, agriculture and endless tiny springs. There were lots of cattle, chewing happily or grazing, feeding their young, or lying down, basking in the sunny breeze and swatting at the flies with their tails. We watched a small deer as she pranced across a sloping field and then "did her business," while hiding modestly under one of the few shade-granting trees. She skipped off happily afterwards, never seeming to take note (or care) of our presence.
More soon...
This is just the beginning!
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