Thursday, June 28, 2007

India - the maze of cars and rickshaws only intensifies the confusion of my internal clock - but today the experiences I had remind me again of why I travel, and why I love it. In spite of countless experiences in India that I have heard, delving into the midst of Delhi today was nothing I could have imagined...
But let me back track...
When did this long day-week begin? I left Colorado at 3:30 am, headed for the airport. I had a 9 am flight to St Paul. There I caught a flight to Amsterdam. With 4 hours of layover in the Netherlands, I headed into the nearby city center for breakfast. I met a young journalist on her way to Uganda who was doing the same thing. Rejuvenated by the fresh air, we toured Amsterdam quickly, grins on our faces, cameras snapping - we felt as though this glimpse of Europe was a stolen delicacy, a forbidden treat. But I made it back to the airport with plenty of time to spare, and boarded my flight for India.

On the plane, I watched my first Bollywood movie - "Guru" - and was entertained by the cheesy love story coupled with the occasional music-video interlude that is so typical (apparently) of Indian film.

I arrived and was greeted by a man with a "Rachel Olstein" sign (My life is complete!) and we headed out into the late night Delhi traffic. He whisked us past the cab drivers and to an awaiting car.

At our hotel, which is incredible, I met up with Paul, my co--leader. 13 of our kids were safely asleep in their beds. But one had missed his connection in Chicago. My boss decided that I would stay in Delhi by myself for the day so that I Could greet Adam. The rest of our group took an early morning flight to Leh - in the Ladakh region of India.

Faced with the possibility of a day full of rest, I was and still am enormously grateful. Inexplicably, however, I couldn't sleep. I woke up, had a delicious breakfast around 8am and proceeded to explore the gardens at my hotel. I even got to do some laps in their new swimming pool. A note about the hotel - it's stunning, and has the outer appearance of any western 4 star hotel. On closer inspection, however, some things aren't quite streamlined yet. My TV and phone don't work, and the wake up call here is the knocking of the concierge at my door. It's great - so personal, but not always right on time. Also, when i tried to turn on my shower, the faucet fell off in my hands. I relate these trifles as observations more than complaints. They amuse me more than annoy me although a few fellow guests I met here far less humored.

On to the highlights of my day. Lilid, a tour guide, offered to show me around the city today. How could I refuse. The tour company in very reputable and my company has worked with them for three years. I was being offered a private tour for free! At noon, I took a car to the Grand Hotel - a 5 star palace that reeks of ostentation in comparison to the shanties, dirty streets and maze of cars that surround its walled and gardened acres on all sides. The (mis)adventures of my day began immediately. My driver, a 54 year old employee of the hotel, proceeded to interrogate me about my married life. (Seems to be a common first question here.) In spite of the details I provided to him about my husband and his very important job, this man had the nerve to ask me my room number! I chastised him and Lilid ended up complaining to this guy's boss. Hitting on the 20=something trip leaders isn't good for Lilid's business or the hotel. It's not particularly good for my peace of mind either.

In spite of the creepy driver, the ride to the Grand Hotel was unforgettable. Cars here drive on the left = in theory. But really, they go anywhere. Any side of the road, any lane, any tiny space that is small enough for them to squeeze between. There are buses, rickshaws, trucks, bikes, motorcycles (which the women ride side saddle with children in their arms.) At any traffic jam, there are children selling magazines or coconuts, standing in the middle of highway intersections barefoot, they appeal for a few small rupees (worth fractions of a penny.) Along the road are tents and make shift huts, whole villages set up beneath highway underpasses. I wonder if the tarps will survive the monsoon rains.

Hence, the shock of arriving at the Grand, a spot that Lilid had offered only because it is safe and well known. He pulled up in a motorcycle and realized how the tour would work. I was terrified, as he quickly saw, but he drove very slowly, very carefully and all the way on the right side. The scariest part was the constant honking. Cars here are encouraged to honk (the backs of buses say "Honke Please") so that drivers will know all the vehicles around them. You can only imagine the cacophony this creates. My heart lept each time a horn blared behind me. Shortly after lunch, we decided that I would feel safer in another form of transportation. Lilid is a kind and generous guide. He was always professional and appropriate - protective but not patronizing.

We rode off through Delhi toward a delicious lunch spot where Lilid and I discussed the differences between marriage and couplehood in our respective countries. He has been married 2 years to a 21-year-old woman that he never met before his wedding. His primary criteria in a wife was that she be able to life well with his mother. He spoke glowingly of his mother (even more so than of his wife.) His mother still cooks for him, cleans his clothes and wakes him up for work each day, in spite of his marriage and fatherhood. (He has a 1 year old) He told me of all the things his wife does to try and keep him happy. I asked what he does for her... "I protect her, and provide for her. I take her places and translate because she does not speak Hindi." he replied. I encouraged him to give his wife some more chances to visit her family; at 21, she must miss them terribly - he did say he wanted to do so, but that the 12 horu drive makes it difficult.

We also spoke a bit about Israelis (he is leading a group of 60 Israelis next month.) I told him about the sabra-fruit analogy and when I described the spiny sweet fruit, he knew it from his home village. He then asked me what religion Israelis are. It was a nice change to talk about Israel with someone so free of bias, so unaffected by news accounts, by family ties, by emotions or creed.


Monsoon season kicked in right after lunch. India has months of rare rains, and then, usually not until July, the monsoons arrives with little warning. The thick humidity of the air (so foggy that my camera lens needed constant wiping off) was the only hint. As I rode through Delhi on the bike, the rain began to fall in large painful droplets. We pulled over and Lilid led the way while I scrambled into a rickshaw and followed behind him.

We headed to the Lotus Temple, a Bahai prayer hall that gleams in marble and is designed to look exactly like the lotus flower. I only spotted one other non=Indian there. The place is more of a national attraction than a big tourist spot. As we approached the temple on countless stairs, we had to remove our shoes before entering the silent sanctuary - a round, smooth womb of white where music played barely audibly in the background. Feeling the cool stones beneath my feet, I felt grounded, calm and undistracted as I circled the temple's main hall.

As we left the temple, I was overcome (finally) with total exhaustion. Suddenly, in spite of the fact that at 4pm, I should have felt ready for breakfast back in the states, I could barely keep my eyes open. We hopped into another rickshaw and I feel asleep, completely oblivious to the cars, bikes and trucks that weaved around me, inches from my right leg.

Back at the hotel, I fell asleep instantly and woke up at 7, just in time for a quick breakfast before my flight. I dressed quickly, still feeling tired in spite of the 14 hours of rest. I checked in with Lilid went up to the dining room and ordered a coffee. The food offerings were oddly different from the previous day's fare. In place of cereal was soup; instead of fruit there were various salads. I inquired about omelets - or muffins - until I finally understood.

"What day is it?!" I asked. It was, of course, still Thursday - and it was 7PM - dinner time. (A good thing too - had it been Friday morning, I would not have been there to get Adam at the airport!)
I laughed for a long while at my utter confusion and then had dinner anyway. Now, back at the hotel with Adam, I have about 3 hours to rest before we head to Leh, the 11,000 feet, to the doorstep of Tibet...

Tuesday, June 12, 2007

I am headed off to Colorado on Friday for a training with The Road Less Traveled. I've got my vaccines and a seemingly enhaustive supply of pills and backcountry gear. Just have to squeeze it all into my pack and I'm ready. I leave for India in 2 weeks and will be mostly in the Himalayas - backpacking and volunteering at a school there. We'll also be in Leh and Delhi. At the end of August, I head to the Azores for my second trip. Using this link, you can get the updates about the trips I am leading. We call in these updates via satelite phone and the company posts them for the parents of our kids.

Here is the link. My trips are Global Service trips and they are called "Namaste 1" and Baleia Bonita 2.

http://www.theroadlesstraveled.com/trip_news.html

I can also get mail, although only once a month or so. Letters, as always, are welcome and loved. I'll do my best to write too.


When you write, please put my name on the bottom of the letter. The addressee should be The Road Less Traveled.

July:
THE ROAD LESS TRAVELED
c/o Far Horizons Tours
66, LGF Charmwood Plaza
Eros Garden, Near Suraj Kund
Faridabad - 121009

August:
THE ROAD LESS TRAVELED
CASA DO LADO
Rua D. Pedro IV 23
Horta 9900-111
Faial, Azores
Portugal

Sunday, June 10, 2007

ACHDOOT (Unity)

12 days.
3 backpacking trips - (that's 3 pack outs, 3 pack ins)
50 children
2 1/2 thunder storms
1 raccoon family


I'll
keep this list short. . . because lists have been far too present in
the past 12 days. I'm just finding the time now to reflect, to think,
the breathe, after an intense but incredible, jam packed,exhilarating, and busy 12 days. The Achdoot season!


I worked this spring leading the Achdoot program at Teva. Working with the amazing Mati
Cooper and our fearless intern David Blank(man!), I was responsible for
organizing, planning and prepping 3-day back packing trips for 3
schools and 1 synagogue. From food orders, gear lists, cleaning peanut
butter containers, hanging tarps and schlepping tents - not to mention
the many car rides, it was a daunting task...

But worth every drop of sweat - because out in the backcountry, surrounded by 7th graders, we got to camp! We hiked, built fires, ate smores and had the privilege
of taking nearly 50 children on their first ever camping trip. We had
the honor of introducing these kids to something they had never done
before - and thus got to take part in creating anexperience that most of them will always remember.

Our first trip was with the Reconstructionist
Synagogue of the North Shore. I hadn't known much about this branch of
Judaism before the Memorial Day trip, but they taught us a lot and I
was very impressed. The first trip had some extra challenges.Teva
usually does car camping trips, but our site for this one was about 1/4
mile up beyond the van. When the children arrived (late on a Saturday
afternoon,
of all times), we did a "duffel shuffle." - -teaching them how to pack
their backpacks, and checking their gear for excess clothing and
toiletries.


Only a year after my first Outward Bound trip, I loved the chance to
pass on some of the tricks that I was taught in North Carolina and
California. For me, there was a powerful message in knowing that I can
now teach and facilitate backpacking with confidence - when a bit over
a year ago I was truly a novice.

Once we had reached our
site, it was time to send out scouts! We structure our trips as a model
for the Exodus from Egypt and the time the Jews spent wandering in the
desert. When we arrive at a new site, we send out scouts. We encourage
them to bring back positive feedback like Caleb and Joshua so that we
can all enter the Land of Milk and Honey. As a community, they choose a
kitchen location, a sanctuary and tent sites. Later, we divide intoshvatim - tribes. These 3 groups will rotate responsibility
for cooking, cleaning and fire/water. Each tribe is given a student
leader, just as Moses gave each of the Israelite tribes a leader.

Our first night out was eventful! As Blankman
was cleaning up dishes, he was visited by a very bold raccoon. Despite
his attempts to scare off our company, the raccoon (who the kids named
Caveman Joe) called upon his friends who started inching towards our
stronghold from all directions. We cleaned up impeccably and huddled
around the fire, hoping that the raccoons were feeling more curious
than carnivorous. The next day, I humbly threw away a piece of gum that
I had left in my backpack - turns out it had been the bait that was
luring Caveman Joe and his family.

Mati was a reliable
alarm clock throughout the trips. We take away watches from the
children in order to encourage them to be in tune with the natural
rhythms of their bodies and the world. Some of them are frustrated at
first, but by the end they appreciate the break from time - being on
time, knowing what time it is, having enough time, etc... We wake up
the children with a Jewish prayer "modeh ani" that talks of gratitude for another day of life. We sing as we walk through the tents, gently shaking the rainflys
above the children's heads. Before heading to our chosen prayer spot,
we drink hot chocolate and do some morning stretches, accompanied by
their corresponding prayers in Jewish Liturgy. (akabirchot hashachar)

With the Reconstructionist group, prayer was amazing! They have a beautiful book with drawings and readings about Kavanah - intention. We had them break up into groups to talk about each of the blessings of the Amidah
(a central Jewish prayer.) They came back to share their insight. We
sang and played drums and although services lasted an hour, no one
seemed bored or antsy. After praying, we head down to our kitchen for
morning chores and breakfast prep.

During the day, we do
group building activities and go for a hike. With lighting threatening
in the distance, we had to keep the hike short. We did get a chance to
go to the overlook and the kids were dazzled by the turkey vultures
that circled about the mountaintop. We had a view of Surprise Lake Camp
and the lake from our lookout. Back at camp, the rest of the evening
progressed uneventfully . . . until around 2am.

I woke up at
1:30 with the feeling that something was about to happen. Rain was
pounding on my tent and thunder rumbled from a not so distant place
nearby. I woke up Sara who was sleeping beside me. As the lighting
began to flash, we debated our options. Waking the kids would scare
them, but we could put them into a safe position. We decided thatoutting
them outside of their tents was too risky - most of them lacked decent
rain gear and we didn't want to compound our situation with the added
risk of hypothermia. Once the lighting was about miles away, we woke up
the kids, sternly but lovingly. We told them to sit in their tents in
the lightning position = on their sleeping pads, knees up, not touching
their tent mates. The lighting drill - which ended up lasting several
hours - was a highlight for many of the students. David, Sara and I set
up our own mats encircling their tents and as the thunder crashed ever
closer, we sang songs to stay awake and keep busy. Everyone came
together, no one was scared. One girl told me the next day that she was
sad when it was over.

Exhausted the next morning, the kids asked for breakfast smores.
Of course! We spend the third day packing up - the kids were thorough
and tireless. They helped us pack out and clean the gear for the 2nd trip, which was leaving only about 18 hours after the close of this one. We were bleary
eyed but ecstatic when the group drove off. It was a hot Memorial Day
and I finished with a dip in the lake. Without hot water, I showered
anyway, and then got to work packing for trip 2.

TRIP 2 - Solomon Schechter from South Boston

For trip two, we recruited our favorite Teva Superhero Intern David Blankman. Mati
and I were psyched to have the extra help and the kids enjoyed his
presence, especially those lucky enough to be in his tribe. (He taught
them some great cooking skills, and they excelled at craftsmanship when
they made dinner on the last night.)

But I'm jumping ahead:
The
week began in a bizarre manner. The group was due to arrive at 10. By
11, I was starting to worry because they still had not arrived. And
then my phone rang.
The group had managed to miss exit 50 in
Hartford Connecticut and was calling from Pennsylvania! I carefully
directed them through New York and back to our site on Route 44. 2
hours later, the phone rings again.
Excitedly, they declared their arrival - - -
at Surprise lake camp in New York.
But we were in Connecticut...
So
it wasn't until around 2 PM or so that the group arrived. We had a full
lunch plus added cookies and watermelon ready for them. They were
remarkably cheerful and excited to be there. I was especially impressed
with the staff's ability to maintain a positive attitude throughout the
ordeal.

The week went smoothly. I was proud of my backpacking
skills - we seemed to have the exact right amount of food. But the
school felt that a lack of leftovers meant too little food - so for the
third week we added in some more food. It felt good, nonetheless, to
know that I was developing my ability to assess the needs of groups in
terms of our pack out - gear, food, etc.

The highlight of the week happened on Thursday morning. One girl, Layla, was being Bat Mitzvahed
the following Saturday. The school had asked us to do something special
for morning services. during free time on Wednesday, we had some of the
children decorate our "makom kodesh" - the holy space reserved for prayer. Thursday morning, as we marched into our sanctuary, Layla led the way carrying
the Torah. (The school had brought with them a small Torah.) When we
walked up to the plateau for services, there were sticks and leaves
forming decorating the altar for the Torah. The sticks spelled out
Layla's name and there were patterns of Jewish stars. We carried over a
picnic table to use for the Torah. We prayed standing in a circle and
offered the children the opportunity to venture into the woods for
silent meditations.
But our surprise came during the Torah
service. While we knew that Layla would read from the Torah, I had no
idea that she would actually receive an ALIYAH - the moment and honor
that defines someone as a Bat Mitzvah. There, before my eyes, in the midst of the trees, the birds, and the morning sun, Achdoot had its first ever Bat Mitzvah! There were tears in my eyes as she finished the blessings and we all
sang loudly to her, then took turns hugging her. In her honor, there
was chocolate at breakfast, a too small token for the momentous
occasion.


Trip 3

The third Achdoot trip was an amazing end to the season. It was just Mati and I, so we delegated many of our duties to the staff from the 2 schools. One teacher had sent her two kids as chaperones. Veteran Camp Ramah staffers, they were always entertaining the kids with games and improv.

We
were worried about the weather all weekend. The kids arrived in the
pouring rain. The forecast was for continued rain and thundershowers.
We set up tarps all over the site and huddled under them for our
introductory meeting. The kids kept their spirits up, and the rain
cooperated with uncanny timeliness. It subsided during tent set up and
dinner preparations. WhileTuesday was full of rumbling thunder, the
lightning never came close, and we only had a brief rain drill in the
afternoon. As the thunder was building up on the second day during our
hike, we walked/ran back to camp to take cover. There, a few of us made
sandwiches while the kids stayed safe and dry in their tents. We
delivered their meals and waited for the storm to arrive.
It didn't.

After an hour or so, we gathered everyone together for group building challenges. We designed afternoon chuggim (choice periods) with the help, again, of Arielle and Noah, the Ramah kids. Mati taught the children to make dream catchers. Arielle and Noah did improv and acted out the Exodus story and its relevance to camping. I led a class on knots and tarping.

I
had been very nervous to teach this particular class. Knots are new to
me and in order to put up a decent tarp, I had to teach the children
several principles oftarpibng and 4 different kinds of knots. They were
incredible! I ended up showing them about 8 to 10 different knots. They
each practiced on their whistle cords. A math teacher who was with us
taught them all to daisy chain, so for the next two days, they were constantly daisy chaining
our ropes - keeping them organized and untangled. For a final
challenge, the kids hung up a tarp without our help. They did it
perfectly! I was blown away - and flattered whenmany of them told me it
was the highlight of their week. When it came time to breakdown camp,
we had many willing volunteers to help with the ropes and tarps. I told
the children that they would be set to camp on their own in a few
years. Tarping can be one of the most technically challenging parts of camping to master. They excelled.

Beyond
the rain, the week offered some additional excitement. One girl, fell
badly on her wrist. Another boy got a tick engorged and had a strange
mark left behind. On the last night, I took these two tough kids to the
local clinic. The boy with the tick was fine. The girl needed to see an
orthopedic surgeon for follow up. I am hoping she is okay. She handled
the pain very well and kept her wrist in the splint I made for her.
They took several x-rays at the clinic, and we stayed busy and laughing
with my dramatic reading of children's books that we found in the
waiting area.

When this group of kids left, I was elated. Not
by their departure, of course, but by the knowledge that the season had
been such a success. We marched them down to the bus in song, as
always, and ran after thebuses as they pulled off on the gravel roads.
When I turned and walked back through the trees to our deserted camp, I
cried a few tears of joy.Mati and I pulled off a kickass Achdoot season, with happy kids who learned and had fun, and overcome obstacles ranging from 2am lighting to unabashed raccoons, from a lack of flushing toilets to relentless mosquitoes.

Modah ani- - - -I am so grateful.