Kibbutz...


After a 4 hour ride south from Tel Aviv, I spotted an oasis in the midst of the sandy beige valley where the highway cuts between two small mountain ranges. Visible from a few kilometers away, the kibbutz appeared small, isolated and sort of randomly plopped down. . . The bus let me off outside the gates and as it sped away, I took a few minutes to take in my surroundings.

I first noticed the heat. I love it, but I believe it's what they mean when people say stifling heat, or "it's so hot I cant breath" or "too hot to move." It does have an oppressive force to it, especially at 1 in the afternoon, especially when trees are sparse. But the kibbutz buildings are air condidtioned and there is a beautiful swimming pool. An additional bonus is that my room is the one with a great porch out front, sheletered by old palm fronds and equipped with chairs, a table and a laundry drying rack. Very luxurious accomodations, but more on that later...

The second thing I noticed upon arrival, as I glanced (unknowingly) at Jordan, which is maybe a mile or so to the east.... was the huge bright green grove of date trees. They are beautiful, but oddly juxtaposed and clearly out of place in the desert. I spoke tonight with a student here at the Arava Institute (an enviromental studies prgroamn based on the kibbutz) and she told me that the use of water for such projects is insane, but that the dates sell for a euro each in Europe.... This conflict, between zionism and environmentalism, between the survival of Israel and the morality of some of its policies seems to be a theme of my trip so far... or at least in the thinking that I am going through...


My new home, Kibbutz Ketura, is about 30 minutes from Eilat. there are about 300 residents, most of whom come originally from the United States, although I met a woman today from Columbia and there are one or two French families. ;) Imagine the liberal hippy, somewhat scruffy, seemingly laid back but extremely productive and well-educated Jews of the park slope Jewish center or the Newton Center Minyan. Well, that;s pretty much the kibbutz populous... Idealist Jews who love living here and work hard to make it work. I spent a few hours tonight with Aliza and her family. (Shes the volunteer coordinator) She and her husband are form NYC and met at a Jewish summer camp. Now they have three little Israel kids running around kibbutz or riding in their playpen on wheels.

The kibbutz sustains itself selling dates, and a dye they make from algae cultivated here. Around us is nothing but mountains, although a few other kibbutzim are nearby. They all go together to a local school a few miles away. There is also a dairy nearby that is supposed to have the best icecream and chocolate milk in Israel. : 0

Because this is getting long, I'll tell about my job and Tel Aviv in other blogs...
Oh!
My phone number is 011-972-52-317-5181
Best times to call are 12:30-4pm or 8:15-11am - It's 7 hours later here than in NY. (I think...)



My address is
Rachel Olstein - VOLUNTEER
Kibbutz Ketura
D.N. Hevel Eilat 88840
ISRAEL

my mom knows how to call for 2 cents a minute. I, unfortuantely, can't call out, and have limited email access, but will do my best to keep in touch. I always like letters the best! And I can always reply on paper!!!!!

More soon!
-r

"In long range-planning for a trip, I think there is a private conviction that it won't happen. Something had to happen to forbid my going, but it didn't."
- steinbeck

How to begin... and now the only thing yet to do is depart.

"When the virus of recklessness begins to take possession of a wayward man and the road away from Here seems broad and straight and sweet, the victim must first find in himself a good and sufficient reason for going."

These past few weeks have been too busy to be sad. And as I've walked out of doorway after doorway, I have tried to practice what I see as my goal for this trip. Being present in the moment. Undeniably, any choice means the closing of alternatives. The bravery in decision making is accepting the unchosen. It is easy to validate the choices we make in retrospect, to explain away why our experiences were "meant to be." It is harder is to let go of the untrodden opportunities and I can not quite believe- tempting as it may be - that those options would not have played out in equal or even better fates. So as I begin this new phase, I hope to weigh opportunities in a different way, based less on should, based less on pressure from society, and based more on what I believe is truly the best choice. My hope is that an open mind will awaken me to opportunities that I could easily miss, and that a focus on the present will make each choice I make that much more complete and fulfilling.

Cheesy, perhaps, but for those who know me, you'll agreed that I have spent too much of these 25 years worrying about the past and the future. It is time to leave the worrying behind and to live, now.

Doors close behind me. (I can't help but think about ne'ilah) but I am proud that I have no regrets, no burned bridges and no hard feelings (I hope). I am not running away from anything (at least not consciously!) nor am I running toward anything. I am simply walking forward.

I go alone, and would not want it any other way. But the past few weeks have again reminded me of how blessed I am. Family, friends, community... I take parts of it all with me and know that I would never have the courage to go if I didn't have such a strong safety net back home. I do not go seeking home or with the hope of "Finding myself." I know well that my home is where my family is and that I am Jewish, American, a Hess, an Olstein, a Nauman...


Steinbeck again, because he says it better: [Journeys] are things in themselves, each one an individual and no two alike. I speculated with wonder on the strength of the individuality of journeys and stop to postulate that people don't take trips - trips take people..."

And thus, I jump aboard, eyes open, heart open, mind open, ready for this journey. . .

About my weekend...

My last night in Leon was unforgettable. Uri, Yael, Adi, Michael and I celebrated Chanukah, sang a few lullabies, and stayed up all night playing a very cool card game that Uri taught us. I have to write down all the rules before I forget it. They were determined to stay up with me until 6am when I had to wake up Oren to catch a bus south. I was flattered by their determination. It was an intense evening and while some bizarre and mean things were said (mostly due to the heat of the competition at the table), it's a night Ill remember for the laughs, stories and connections that the 5 of us shared. Uri and Michael eventually conked out on us around 4 or 5, but the night guard at the hotel joined us and even made up some fresh coffee.

Oren and I took a shared taxi to Managua and then a bus to Rivas. Another taxi ride later and we were in San Juan del Sur, on the southern coast of Nicaragua. I was not prepared for such an abrupt change in ambiance, but I grew to like San Juan as well. San Juan is a surfer beach town, not so different from beach towns across the world. There's the predictably ubiquitous shell jewelry, Bob Marley music and scantilly clad beach bums. Still, I enjoyed another chance to veg out and do very little.

For some unexplicable reason, we had discovered France in Nicaragua. With very few exceptions, our hostel was full of people from France and Quebec. I was thrilled, although I felt bad that Oren doesnt speak French. SO I found myself speaking mostly French this weekend, and ocassionally Spanish with sdome Italians. Its exciting to be living in this International world where Spanish can be the common denominator-language between any two people... Im certainly a long, long way from fluent, but I am proud to say that I can converse in Spanish and communicate what I need to.


The first night, (Friday) Oren and I went out for a fresh fish dinner that cost $3. Then I went out dancing with several people frm the hostel. Barry, Helene, Thomas, "eduardo" and I found a local bar that wasnt touristy. We drank way too much and were shocked when the whole bill was under $10 at the end of the night. Then we headed out to go dancing. The night ended on the beach under the stars around 3:30 am.

Saturday, I awoke early and Oren and I headed to a more remote beach after a leisurely breakfast in the mercado. We vegged out seriously on the beach - I mostly slept and worked on my red head's tan. The water was colder than I expected but I had fun jumping in the waves. Our cab driver waited for us at the beach for 4 hours - the road was so bad and his car so beat up that Im still in shock that we made it to the beach. Along the way, we passed many small homes with children and animals mingling outdoors. I tried to imagine living in such a place - where a bike ride to the beach must be an adventure and a trip into San Juan a special treat. There wasnt electricity or plumbing in some of the places. Ive had several discussions here about the whole money and happiness thing, and I am sure that many of these people are happier than people up in Newton or Greenwich.

Speaking of Newton, I met two Newtonites (newtonians?) in San Juan and as it turns out, this is the town that Newton high school students come to on the Nicaragua trip. I had applied to go on this trip during my senior year, but my spanish was not up to par. I thought of my friends who had gone - it was cool to know that they had been in this town.

New Years Eve, we all bought some fresh fish and vegetables. Alex (Quebecois) and Marco (from Rome) cleaned all the fish while Yacine (Paris) and I managed the salad. It was so much fun cooking for 17 and we all enjoyed the feast. I was exhausted, so Yacine and I went out for some coffee and ice cream. Before midnight, we headed to the beach where we celebrated with champagne, hugs and a great view of the fireworks that were going off all around town. THe rest of the night/morning, I went from bar to bar, met some people from Flagstaff Arizone, and ended the night with a dip in the Pacific. Only problem was, most of my clothes, my money and my passport enjoyed the waters as well and are still drying out.

A classic Rachel moment: Sunday morning, I discovered a rash on my stomach. Tiny bright pink circles appeared, although they were neither itchy nor painful. The didnt come off, and still havent, but I have discovered the culprit. My new skirt has hot pink yard around its little mirrors. Apparently, the yarn bled on me, on my shirt and on my money belt. Good news is, I dont think its dengue fever and I doubt its fatal.

Sunday, my cab driver didnt show, but I found a cheaper ride to the border. At 8 AM, there were no other cars in sight, I got a view of the Lake of Nicaragua along the way. Crossing the border was relatively quick because only one bus was there. Still, it is less than obvious where I am supposed to go. There are no signs and it took me awhile to figure out which way I had to walk to get to Costa Rica. You pay at one place, walk 200 yards or so, wait in line to check out of Nicaragua. Then, there's a long walk to the other country where it feels quite clearly that you could walk right in. Inside a restaurant, was the immigration office where I had to get admitted to Costa Rica. From this office alone, I could tell that Costa Rica is more used to tourists than the other countried I had visited. It was air conditioned, and far cleaner than the other offices. There were several people working there. After that, I talked my way onto a bus to Costa Rica and passed out for the next 5 hours.

Last night, I finally ate around 6:30 for the first time. I had had so much trouble finding food. I met a very cool French girl and we vegged out watching 13 going on 30 - a much better movie than I would have thought.

Now Im off to the mercado. Maybe Ill find something I want to bring back... Then its off to the airport at noon.

I hope youve enjoyed my blog! More to come...on my next journey.

Wherever you are in the world, I hope this year is a happy, healthy and exciting one. This world is one that is ever easier to navigate and I hope to see each of you soon, whether youre in New York or Im off in your part of the planet. To those Ive met along the way, thanks for helping make this trip to incredible.

After 3 days with no more than 3 hours of consecutive sleeping, I crashed at 7¨30 last night and have sadly seen none of Costa Rica. I will walk around a bit this morning in the capital, but will have to come back to see the nature that Costa Rica is known for. (It is, by the way, much more touristy and expensive than the rest of Central America...)

In 11 days, Ive crossed 4 borders (more on that later), traveled about 1000 km, seen volcanoes and farms, a playoff baseball game and a folk music icon, met people from all around the world (more places to travel to!), taken taxis to remote beaches, swam in the Pacific on New Years eve, stayed up until the roosters told me it was morning, celebrated chanukah with Jews (*and Christians) from around the world, cooked a fresh fish dinner for 17 people, danced to salsa and reggae, ate sugar cane, passion fruit, and pupusas plus BUrger King Salvadoran style.

Let me say that I cant wait to do laundry. I have never, ever been as dirty as I am now. It doesnt bother me as much as it amazes me. I think I need to jump in the washing machine along with my clothes! I definitely didnt over pack...

In all, Im complete overwhelmed and flabbergasted *in a good way* by all that I have seen in done in less than two weeks. Being at "home" in Connecticut feels at least a month away and the last crazy night trying to get to the airport like a distant dream. In spite of this, Im not sad to be going home. Only the cold daunts me, but I am excited to see the kids and to make the second half of the year amazing for them. Im looking forward to seeing everyone, my family, my kitten, my awesome roommate.

My apologies: havent found postcards or stamps, Im sorry!!! Ill be home soon. : ) Please let me hear your comments... Happy New Year to everyone! and good luck to CORA in the marathon.....

Thursday ----->
It's hot here in Leon, Nicaragua!
Monday night we did Chanukah with the Arguetas, who were fascinated. Then we sat around and played Hebrew music until 1 or 2 am. The sons (Walters cousins) are extremely talented. Oren said some of the best guitar playing he had ever seen. I have to agree.
After a final celebratory evening at the mall and an arcade with the Arguetas, headed south to Nicaragua. Another long bus ride and border crossing, but the seats are amazingly comfortable and I got to sleep and read.
We're now in Leon, a student town, known for its liberal and revolutionary spirit. We spent today walking around town and enjoying the many murals of the city. One featured a CIA snake reaching up and biting the hands of people trying to vote. In the local cultural center, theres a prominent painting of Reagan, sitting - grinning - on the head of an indigenous woman whose hands are bleeding. On either side of her are two little peons - I think local government officials - who are dressed as clowns.
Weve met up with three Israelis and a guy from France. Wev'e spent the last 2 days together. Last night, for Chanukah, about 8 of us gathered and I told the story of chanukah - a sort of dramatic interpretation complete with sound effects. We sang some songs and talked about our favorite holiday foods.

Let's backtrack....
Tuesday night we went out to see a revolutionary band play at a local bar. They were fantastic! They were so excited about the crowd, and so passionate about the music. A lot of people were signing along and I got to dance with some very special Nicaraguan men. Oren has some funny pictures to prove it. That night I stayed up late talking about Israeli politics etc... which was really interesting in light of Sharon's new party and the elections in the Spring.

I love having the time to think again and to get into lengthly discussions... After a week, Im feeling again like mysely and am a bit envious of those around me who are traveling for months. Most people here are planning on travelling for at least 4 months...

Yesterday, we went to the cerro negro, an amazing volcanic formation about an hour away. Flavio drove us in a Jeep through dirt roads. We negotiated our way past ox drawn carts, chickens, dogs and some hungry looking horses. The landscape is incredible - desert like with flat fields. There are scattered huts, and in the distance are several volcanoes that pop out suddently from the ground.

AtCcerro Negro, quite literally a black pile of ask, we climbed up the moon-like surface to the top of the crater. Oren, Uri and I explored the crater which was smoldering. There were patches of white, yellow and red from sulpher and iron. You could feel the heat coming from the volcano and I collected some rocks to show my students. After walking all around the rim of the volcano, we got to slide down!

Leaping through a steep pile of volcanic ash isnt really comparable to any other experience Ive had. We could jump really high and land softly in the deep tiny rocks. We could stop at any time, but could leap down gathering speed and decent lift off as we went. You could also glide your feet along the dust and ski down. I recommend this activity, next time you have the chance. ITs better than skiing, although a lot dirtier!

Although I havent been in nature nearly enough, the trip has been amazing and already I am so so glad that I did this! Tomorrow we're off to be beach bums for a few days in San Juan del Sur. Next time Im here, Ill need several months to see the jungle and the lago de nacaragua - a lake the size of El Salvador with volcanic islands in the center. This brief trip has inspired me to come back - shocking, I know.

Much love
Happy New Year!

Here I sit, in San Salvador, in a house with Internet access, a full-time maid, a recording studio, but alas, very limited hot water (only in one of the three bathrooms) and sketchy plumbing. Its been very interesting to see how people live here and we´ve had experiences that the typical tourist would not be able to find. In fact, I havent seen another American since Friday... or even someone who isn´t from Salvador.

I´ll start from Saturday morning.... 4^30 AM and Oren and I wake up to sit on the dark street outside our hostel Shalom (the name an eerie omen of things to come, that we missed until now) Ostensibly, a bus was going to pick us up right at our door, and miraculously it did. We were taken along with an Israeli girl to the capital where we waited for our bus south. Zone 4 , our driver told us, was ´peligroso´ so he waited with us until the bus came. The streets were cramped with people prepapring their goods for the market - it was difficult to drive through...

On the bus I slept the whole way, of course, although Oren started feeling sick. The border crossing took forever, and the whole bus had to wait for us and 5 other people because Salvadorenos and Guatemalans were exempt from the passport control. We prayed it wouldnt leave without us.

Once in San Salvador, our life has been like a bizarre scavenger hunt - we get in the car and never understand exactly they are taking us - we have some clue, so we try to guess - but each event has been more strange, hilarious and exciting than our imaginations can dream up. Walter´s family has been amazing and we´ve spent time with both his father and mother´s families - the families are very close and we´ve met aunts, uncles, cousins, grandparents, in laws, etc... Mostly, they feed us A LOT!

Walter´s great aunt picked us up from the bus station. Her van - the large car she drives so it can fit the whole family band - has 2 jewish stars and ¨shalom¨on the dashboard. Paled in comparison the the house... Her garage is painted bright blue and the gate in front boasts an enormous Star of David. The gate on the adjacent door is a menorah. The whole family came out to meet us and when the garage door opened we saw a life size mural of the Kotel (the western wall of the temple in Jerusalem) complete with men praying. This, in their garage. Inside the house are countless items of Judaica - shofars, menorahs, music boxes that play the horah, framed copies of the priestly blessing and Israeli flags.

While the family went off to pray, we swam in their rooftop pool. They have a great view of the city and the volcano of San Salvador. The house is several stories tall and trees and flowers hung over the terrace where we swam. It was hot! Then, Bety invited me to watch TV. Her husband and sons were dancing and singing at their church and it was televised on a national station.

We had to see it in person, so as we struggled to understand the meaning of all this, we asked to join them at church for Christmas eve services.

Thousands of Salvadorans go to this church. It is supposedly the biggest congregation in San Salvador, and I have no reason to dispute this fact. Bety dressed in a blue and white dress with a gold Jewish star embroidered on the front. The traffic was crazy and everywhere were signs about salvation and Jesus. Many of the cars had seemingly contradictory bumper stickers - Jesus Saves, and an Israeli flag. We found ourselves smack in the middle of a Messianic Jewish congregation.

The stage was blue and white - with a Christmas tree. The tree, however was somewhat overshadowed by the enormous Jewish star and menorah on the wall. Intermittenly, the preacher spoke of salvation, and then Kol Hatikvah '- the band of the family whose house were staying at - would play the hora or some other song about Israel.

After the service, Oren and I were escorted to private rooms and begged to convert. I stood my ground and I think earned the respect of the missionary just for being Jewish and actually having been to Israel. As for Oren, he was still not feeling well and he opted for the quickest way out - salvation!

I almost wished Id done the same! Minutes later, a young woman came up to Oren and gave him a bracelet. She told him that she´d bought it for herself that day, but that Jesus had just spoken to her and told her to give it to that guy over there. The message from Jesus, via this woman, was that Jesus loves Oren. Alas, Im off to hell... Oren and I were pretty flabergasted.

That night, fireworks overtook the city until 2am. Across the street from Bety´s I ate a special Christmas meal - a sandwich of stewed turkey - and flan for dessert.

SUNDAY----

At 8am, Karla´s brother picked us up to take us out for breakfast. Comida typica at Burger King! After our third trip past the mall, we were beginning to understand how proud they are hre of fast food and chain stores. At Burger King I had a delicious breakfast of beans, eggs, cheese and salsa. After touring the city - the palace, the park de libertad and the enormous Cathedral of Sal Salvador, we went to Ilobasco. This town is about 45 minutes away.

We drove past the lago de san salvador which unfortunately cant be visited right now .The road is out because of flooding. Likewise, we cant visit one of th volcanoes because its active right now!

We spent Christmas day with the Ramirez family. They showed us pottery and we walked through the town which, to be honest, was very very dirty. Trash here doesnt seemed to get picked up regularly, and people just drop things on the ground. Its a shame...

For lunch we had Campero fried chicked. (think KFC) On Christmas, the national tradition is that no one cooks. So we ordered in... I already felt like i was going to overdose on oil and grease, but this was only the beginning.

After lunch, I read a little with Valeria, a 7 year old cousin of Walter. She was such a sweet girl, and very very smart. We drove back to San Salvador and took a pitstop at -yes! - the mall. Oren and I played an awesome game of knock hockey- the only money Ive spent here. Then we went to Walter´s uncles house. First, however, we had to awaken the drunk man on the steps.

They live in a communtiy with a security guard and are directly across the street from another church of Messianic Judaism. It´s everywhere here! Attached to this house was an ice cream shop so we opened for business and got free banana splits! Then we tasted the local soda - kolashanpan.

Next, we were taken to try the national food - pupusas... something wed heard a lot about... It took us over an hero to navigate the traffic and windy roads up to a spot that overlooked the whole city. It seems that it´s weekend tradition to congregate up here and eat pùpusas with the whole family. Horns blared, music played and pick up trucks had beds packed with pèople. ALong side the road were endless pupuserias and vendors selling jewelry and other knicknacks. We arrived and ate the delicious (fried) tortillas filled with beans and cheese.

Today, my tummy hurts a little, but Im happy. The hospitality here has been incredible and I feel like we´ve gotten to understand a bit about the Salvadoran culture. ITs wonderful to see how close the families are and how proud they are of their country.

Hello all...
Am writing from antigua where i have been since yesterday afternoon.
Ive never ´blogged´ before but it seems like a good way to keep up with my journal writing while simultaneously keeping in touch with people... i hope you enjoy...

So far, getting out of new york was far and away the most treacherous part of the journey. at 430 am it just wasnt possible to get into manhattan so after an hour in traffic on flatbush avenue we finally got on the BQE and took a very circuitous route to Newark. I just made my flight, only because of some somewhat reckless driving on my part and the amazing patience of Jonathan he was busy calling USAir trying to get me on a later flight. Around this time, I started feeling really sick from the chroloquinn (and the stress) but a whole bunch of water and finally getting some sleep on the plane seems to have done a good deal of help.

Fast forward several hours -- arriving in Guatemala CIty was beautiful. We flew over the huge Lago de Atitlan which is surrounded by volcanic peeks. THe landscape here is very mountainous and the volcanoes reach up above the clouds. Coming off the plane, a met a guy named skip from DC. Turns out he was meeting up with a friend of his who is working for an orphanage in Antigua with a peace corps affiliated program, I think. I went with them to Antigua and we had an amazing evening just walking the cobblestone streets of this small city. THere is a huge volcano to the south that helps with my sense of direction. In the center of town is a fountain of 4 sirens - its quite a site. WE had some great coffee on a terrace ' there are amazing flowers everywhere and its about 65 degrees although it got quite cool last night.

I tasted two new foods! Alicia rents a room with a family here and in their garden were several kinds of birds and two pet baby aligators. In her kitchen, she had passion fruit and sugar cane. Buoth good, although the consistency of passion fruit (you only eat the inside, so its safe to eat) is much like frog eggs.

Am staying at teh Hostel Casa Shalom - the name intrigued me, I guess. Theyve found a niche market with the Israelis who all travel after the army. Met some surfer Israelis who are staying there.

Today, Ill find Oren and then head on to El Salvador, although I wish I had more time to hang out around here.

Miss you all, would love to hear from you...