First of all...I know it's been awhile, but no one event has seemed that interesting.Granted, the two weddings of two of my closest friends in the US were certainly UNFORGETABLE, precious occasions, but I am not sure how interesting they are to "my readership." (that's all 5 of you, mom, dad, etc...!)

The biggest news in my life happened today: I am officially a GERMAN! More importantly, I am a real, live European citizen... and it feels great. A little bit like cheating - since I've spent all of 3 weeks there and I don't speak the language- but exhilarating none the less. The windows of opportunity feel wide open to me, the glass of borders smashed; I sort of feel like my own view of myself as citizen of the
"world" is official. Of course that is a nauseatingly closed-minded and western-centric attitude...but I'll bask in this feeling for at least 24 hours nonetheless!

Other news...I move to Tel Aviv this week! Come and visit us near Shuk HaCarmel - and a few blocks from the beach! We have an extra bedroom :)


On to more interesting stories...

Israel had a 4-day weekend in honor of Shavuot (a holiday marking the giving/receiving of the Ten Commandments at Sinai) I celebrated in the wilderness - which I feel is very fitting. (And also with the customary sweet, dairy foods that are eaten on Shavuot. Ori's mom made AMAZING blintzes, and even let us take the leftovers! :)


Thursday night I went to two weddings here and then woke up a few hours later to take a bus up to the most northern part of Israel.

THE GOLAN HEIGHTS:

The Golan is in the north of Israel, to the east of the Jordan River. From its heights we could view Syria, Lebanon, and the finger of the Galilee (the region of Israel that is to the west of the Jordan River.) Beginning up North near Har Dov, with Mount Hermon in site, we spent 4 days wandering, trail blazing, fence hopping, jungle crawling, bushwacking, berry picking, river crossing, swimming and generally crisscrossing the territory as we headed mostly south towards Lake Kinneret.

I learned two Hebrew words this week, although sharing them hardly represents the amazing, breathtaking, memorable experience of the weekend. Still, it's only fair:
בֹּץ - "botz" - mud
מוֹקֵשיםׁ - "moksheem" - landmines

The weekend began with a word of advice from our incredibly knowledgeable guide. The Golan is filled with landmines (something I never knew...) that are left over from the time before 1967 when Syria controlled the territory. There are many, many barbed wire fences posted with warnings about the mines... but Sharon (the guide) also taught us how to distinguish between the metal fence posts used by the Israeli army and those used by Syria. (It's all in the shape of the tiny groves that hold the barbed wire in place.) Although the threat was scary in principle, on the trail it was not a major issue. The mine fields were clearly marked and we walked close together in a single file line. (No mom, I was not in front.) At some points the cleared path was narrow and steep, but certainly passable.

The first day was probably the most remote. The hilly landscape was scattered with beautiful but thorny flowers - purple, blue balls of spikes atop long, thick stems. There were also poppies and other various wild flowers. There were fewer hikers than on a typical weekend, so we went as one group. This meant - much to my advantage! - that the pace was not nearly as challenging as the previous hikes I have done with this group. I got, over the weekend, the worst blisters I have ever had. They plagues me throughout the trek, and , to be honest, put a damper on the entire expreience. I don't at all regret going, but I am busy wondering what exactly I should do about my hiking boots in Turkey next month.

Okay, between thorns, landmines and blisters, I know I am not painting a pretty picture. Let me explain...

First of all, just being in this much argued-over territory, and seeing its geography first hand helped to enhance my understanding of the place. It is lush and green and bursting with fertile fruit trees, agriculture and endless tiny springs. There were lots of cattle, chewing happily or grazing, feeding their young, or lying down, basking in the sunny breeze and swatting at the flies with their tails. We watched a small deer as she pranced across a sloping field and then "did her business," while hiding modestly under one of the few shade-granting trees. She skipped off happily afterwards, never seeming to take note (or care) of our presence.


More soon...
This is just the beginning!